Thaw probe design - Revision history

206.81.93.186 at 06:38, 24 June 2015

2015-06-24T06:38:10Z

imported>Bob at 23:58, 18 April 2011

2011-04-18T23:58:15Z

imported>Bob at 23:57, 18 April 2011

2011-04-18T23:57:18Z

imported>Bob at 23:56, 18 April 2011

2011-04-18T23:56:23Z

imported>Bob at 23:44, 18 April 2011

2011-04-18T23:44:23Z

New page

=== Introduction ===
WERC uses thaw probes to measure active layer depth in summer / fall and sometimes snow depth in winter. The directions that follow are pretty much the current procedure.

===Parts===

Search Ben Meadows.com for Tile probe, which is the general industry name of the probe.
http://www.benmeadows.com/search/tile+probe

Any of those are probably fine. I have purchased both the metal one
and the Nupla fiberglass one. One thing to watch for on the metal one
is that I've had the tip fall off but either are probably fine. Of
the two I prefer the fiberglass model. So
that's the probe but there aren't any graduations on it until it is
paired with something like this tape:
"Adhesive-Backed Paper Tape Scale Left to Right, mm grads, 20M, Yellow.
Part number 1937A22
http://www.mcmaster.com/#

Then you also need a package of epoxy that you
can get from Home Depot, Lowe's or almost any hardware store.
The two compounds harden in 5 minutes type of epoxy. If you buy a
couple of those then you're set. For example:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-84101-PermaPoxy-General-Purpose/dp/B000ALJ4NS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1276807051&sr=8-2

The thaw probe manufacturing procedure follows:

1) Run the tape from the tip of the probe up to the handle carefully
sticking it in place trying to minimize wrinkles and such. The more
wrinkles the easier it will be for the tape to be scraped off when
it's going into the ground.

2) tear off the tip tape back to behind the thaw probe point so that all of the
tape is on cylindrical part of the probe.

3) mix the epoxy and use your hand (in a nitrile glove) to evenly
spread it over the length of the probe. You should have the epoxy go
around the whole probe but thickest over the tape to protect it from
the mineral soil

4) allow the epoxy to dry and apply at least a second coat, perhaps
third for longevity.

If you do all that, even though it's a bit of work, you should have a
probe that lasts at least a year. Redoing the tape every so often is
kind of the nature of the beast but this system has worked well for
us. I think I last did this maybe in 2006 and although the probes
have the tape rubbed off towards the tip the 40 cm and higher
measurements are still pretty visible and we've probably probed
several hundred times since the tape was epoxied.

@@ Line 13: / Line 13: @@
 and the Nupla fiberglass one.  So, that's the probe but there aren't any graduations on it until it is
 paired with something like this tape found at McMaster-Carr:<br/>
-"Adhesive-Backed Paper Tape Scale Left to Right, mm grads, 20M, Yellow.<br/>
+"Adhesive-Backed Paper Tape Scale Left to Right, mm grads, 20M, Yellow.<br/> ''this description may be out of date but the part number has been updated on 2015-06-23''
-Part number 1937A22
+Part number 1937A24
 http://www.mcmaster.com/

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 === Introduction ===
-WERC uses thaw probes to measure active layer depth in summer / fall and sometimes snow depth in winter.  The directions that follow are pretty much the current procedure.[[Image:Thawprobe1.jpg|right|400px]]
+[[Image:Thawprobe1.jpg|right|400px]]
 The thaw probe is normally a fiberglass or steel T-handled probe 3 to 6 feet in length.  I (Bob Busey) go back and forth in preference.  There are pros and cons for each.  The Fiberglass probe is lighter but sometimes feels dangerously bendy.  The main knock on the steel probe is that sometimes the pointed tip falls off, which creates and error in the graduated marks and makes it harder to stick into the ground.  Also, the handle can unscrew at inconvenient times.  So, on the whole I prefer the fiberglass probe but it isn't clear cut.  The steel probe also goes better through gravels I guess due to the smaller diameter.
 [[Image:Thawprobe3.jpg|right|400px]]

@@ Line 22: / Line 22: @@
 ===Manufacturing Procedure===
 If you do all that, even though it's a bit of work, you should have a probe that lasts at least a year.  Redoing the tape every so often is kind of the nature of the beast but this system has worked well for
 us.

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 === Introduction ===
-WERC uses thaw probes to measure active layer depth in summer / fall and sometimes snow depth in winter.  The directions that follow are pretty much the current procedure.
+WERC uses thaw probes to measure active layer depth in summer / fall and sometimes snow depth in winter.  The directions that follow are pretty much the current procedure.[[Image:Thawprobe1.jpg|right|400px]]
 ===Parts===
-Search Ben Meadows.com for Tile probe, which is the general industry name of the probe.
+Search Ben Meadows.com for Tile probe, which is the general industry name of the probe. This link will show you all the probes.<br/>
-http://www.benmeadows.com/search/tile+probe
+http://www.benmeadows.com/search/tile+probe<br/>
 Any of those are probably fine.  I have purchased both the metal one
-and the Nupla fiberglass one.  One thing to watch for on the metal one
+and the Nupla fiberglass one.  So, that's the probe but there aren't any graduations on it until it is
-is that I've had the tip fall off but either are probably fine.  Of
+paired with something like this tape found at McMaster-Carr:<br/>
-the two I prefer the fiberglass model.  So
+"Adhesive-Backed Paper Tape Scale Left to Right, mm grads, 20M, Yellow.<br/>
 Part number 1937A22
-http://www.mcmaster.com/#
+http://www.mcmaster.com/
+Then you also need a package of epoxy that you can get from Home Depot / Lowes / Freddies / or almost any hardware store.  The two compounds harden in 5 minutes type of epoxy works best.  If you buy a
 couple of those then you're set.  For example:
 http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-84101-PermaPoxy-General-Purpose/dp/B000ALJ4NS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1276807051&sr=8-2
-The thaw probe manufacturing procedure follows:
+===Manufacturing Procedure===
-) Run the tape from the tip of the probe up to the handle carefully
+# Run the tape from the tip of the probe up to the handle carefully
 sticking it in place trying to minimize wrinkles and such.  The more
 wrinkles the easier it will be for the tape to be scraped off when
 it's going into the ground.
+# Tear off the tip tape back to behind the thaw probe point so that all of the
 tape is on cylindrical part of the probe.
+# Mix the epoxy and use your hand (in a nitrile glove) to evenly
 spread it over the length of the probe.  You should have the epoxy go
 around the whole probe but thickest over the tape to protect it from
-the mineral soil
+the mineral soil.
 If you do all that, even though it's a bit of work, you should have a
 probe that lasts at least a year.  Redoing the tape every so often is
 kind of the nature of the beast but this system has worked well for
-us.  I think I last did this maybe in 2006 and although the probes
+us.